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wants stroker advise

Questions and comments about various aftermarket parts and companies who sells these parts. You could also review sellers you've purchased from.

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Mr.BetoDaChevyBoy
Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2007 1:01 am
Joined: Thu Mar 08, 2007 12:08 pm
Location: South Gate,CA
Posts: 9
so far I got the block its a 350 .40 over
and a gm 400 crank grinded down to fit the 350 mains

What's the best pistons and connecting rods to go with?
I'm looking for high compression with ok
cylinder to head clearance

Also any other advise on building a good stroker?
What parts to use?
Cylinder heads?
and most importantly what cam should I go with?
I'm thinking high lift flat tappet with low overlap?
what do you guys recommend?
 

 
Post
rlyfst1
Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2007 5:49 am
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I assume you want to run pump gas.

Can't go wrong with eagle H-beam rods and JE pistons. All aftermarket heads perform well, and are spec'd with valve springs that can handle a bigger cam and larger ratio rockers.

As for the cam, how are you going to use the car? Daily, street/strip?
 

 
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abob
Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2007 8:27 am
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Where Did You Hear Of Camarosource.ca?: Roj told me. He is my hero. One day, im gonna grow up and be just like him, You'll see.
You cant figure what compression your going to be at with a certain piston until you know what CC combustion chamber your heads are.

Also what head gasket and if the heads have been decked. Start with getting the heads all squared away, then you can order your pistons. then your cam. Also make sure you clay it to make sure you have clearance.


Also did you have the block machined to make sure your crank clears the skirts? going from a .348 to a .375 stroke. usually needs the bottom of the block machined out too.

As for the cam if your not limited to rules, id go with a roller cam. You can get alot more lift without having to increase the duration too much.
 

 
Post
Mr.BetoDaChevyBoy
Posted: Wed Apr 04, 2007 12:49 pm
Joined: Thu Mar 08, 2007 12:08 pm
Location: South Gate,CA
Posts: 9
I'm thinking along the lines of street/strip

And I'm kind of on a budget so I'm probably gonna start of with the stock cast heads, port and polished, vunati valve springs, comp cam roller rockers, and of course oversized valves, unless I could come across some aluminum head for cheap.
The block has been bored and knoched for crank clearance and improved lubrication.
As for cam I want something that gives me good power all through the rpm range
 

 
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rlyfst1
Posted: Thu Apr 05, 2007 8:21 am
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Have you selected an intake manifold? Single or dual plane?
 

 
Post
Mr.BetoDaChevyBoy
Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2007 4:24 pm
Joined: Thu Mar 08, 2007 12:08 pm
Location: South Gate,CA
Posts: 9
manifold probably an air gap
or an old school dual plane to keep it looking retro

What's a 388?
I've heard of a 377 and 355 but not a 388?
Can you expalin that to me
 

 
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rlyfst1
Posted: Mon Apr 09, 2007 8:26 pm
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What's a 388?


350 with 3.750 inch stroke, bored .60 over (yes, you better have the walls ultrasound tested before you do this)

You might like my cam set up. Comp cam roller, 0.520 intake, 0.540 exhaust, 236/242 duration.

You can check out the rest of my motor on my f-rides page
 

 
Post
PrOpHiT_Z28
Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 1:00 am
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rlyfst1 wrote:
 
What's a 388?


350 with 3.750 inch stroke, bored .60 over (yes, you better have the walls ultrasound tested before you do this)



when bored .60 over doesnt it heat faster because the cylender walls are thinner???
PrOpHiT***Z28 BABY
 

 
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rlyfst1
Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 4:32 am
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when bored .60 over doesnt it heat faster because the cylender walls are thinner???


We had a long discsussion in a previous post on this. Most people believe the extra 5 cubic inches isn't worth the effort. Like I said, if you start with the right block, it shouldn't be an issue, and most engine builders will tell you it's the base to make a 500 HP small block. That said, from my experience, the engine does not run hot, and I'm using a 2 row aluminum radiator. http://www.circletrack.com/techarticles ... index.html
 


 

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